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SERENE/ERNEST Anchors


SERENE and/or ERNEST are useful acronyms for remembering the important points when building anchors.




SERENE

  • S - Strong (or Solid) - The stronger the better
  • E - Equalized - Anchors should be constructed so that each component of the anchor carries an equal amount of the load
  • R - Redundant - Anchors should consist of muliple components in case one or more components fail
  • E - Efficient - Anchors should be as simple and timely as possible without giving up any of the other SERENE qualities
  • NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded

Many sources drop the efficiency component and suggest building SRENE anchors, but that's just silly.

ERNEST

ERNEST covers all the same points, but in an alternate order and in slightly different language

  • E - Equalized - Anchors should be constructed so that each component of the anchor carries an equal amount of the load
  • R - Redundant - Anchors should consist of muliple components in case one or more components fail
  • NE - No Extension - Anchors should be built so that if one or more of the components fail the remaining components won't be shock loaded
  • S - Strong (or Solid) - The stronger the better
  • T - Timely - Anchors should be as simple and timely as possible without giving up any of the other ERNEST qualities

The Climber's Bible